urine, pet odors, carpet stains: permanent removal kit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1𠂻 ODOR FREE Kit
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The123 ODOR FREEKit
from Just Rite Cleaning Products, Inc.

Judged best for serious odors by Cat Nip Magazine,
August 1999

(Published by Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine)

 

 

Here are some questions that we are often asked about our product:

Q. Why will this kit work better than others I have read about or seen?
A. Just Rite has been in the professional carpet cleaning business 40 years. We specialize in pet stains and odors, and the 123 Kit is comprised of the identical products that we use. We have also supplied professional carpet cleaners with the finest, custom formulated chemicals since 1990. www.foamerscorner.com Our reputation for quality, integrity, and customer satisfaction is unsurpassed in this industry. We know what works; and we know what doesn't work. Without hesitation we will stake our reputation on this professional kit.

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Q. Why three products instead of one?

Because you are dealing with several elements. It's not just the urea in the carpet, pad and sub-floor. You also have bacteria, pigment (stain) and urine salt crystals that form between the carpet and pad. All these elements have to be addressed, and the single spray products that abound on TV and the internet fail to do so. The 123 Kit addresses and eliminates all the elements in one easy application.

Also, simple enzyme products are lacking. The key is removing the food source. Enzyme products (sometimes called bio-enzymatic cleaners) do not contain bacteria. Enzymes are not alive. They are simply catalysts that accelerate the rate of chemical reaction. They rely on natures bacteria to "perk up" and work a little harder. For optimum results you need to introduce LABORATORY BRED BACTERIA that consume waste thousands of times faster than natures bacteria. They become "factories" producing more enzymes and multiplying at an amazing rate. Under ideal conditions one cell can multiply to 17 million new bacteria in 8 hours! It is the BACTERIA that  remove the urine, feces, and vomit from the carpet; not the enzymes.  By removing the food source, (pee, feces, vomit) both nature's bacteria, and the laboratory engineered  bacteria you introduce by injecting, have nothing left to feed on. Both strains simply convert to CO2 and water, and evaporate.

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Q. How about hydrogen peroxide "recipes"?
A. Professional carpet cleaners use oxidizers like hydrogen peroxide (for stains) on occasion, but they know how to test for color-fast, and they know how to rinse afterward. Using hydrogen peroxide/baking soda/dish soap recipes for urine odors can damage fabrics and carpets. There are some individuals on the internet who have taken an old well known skunk odor remedy: One quart hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup baking soda, one squirt dish soap, and claim that they "discovered it" and it will solve all your pet problems. They offer it by e-mail for fees ranging from $2.99 to $9.99. Would you really feel comfortable taking advice from someone who has no professional experience in this field, and simply pour hydrogen peroxide on your expensive carpet or upholstery? These "recipes" can bleach out your carpet and fabric dyes. That is why most of these sites warn you to test first for color fast, and then wait 24 hours to be sure. It can become a recipe for disaster!  As for odor, oxidizers like bleach and hydrogen peroxide will kill bacteria, but they can't REMOVE the food source (urine) and if the food source remains, new nature's bacteria arrive in a few days, and  the odor will reappear.

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Q. Home remedies - Do they work?
  • Powders>  80% of the urine is in the pad and sub floor, totally out of reach of absorbent powder.
  • Odorcides, disinfectants>  Kills the bacteria; leaves the urine. Food source remains: New bacteria will arrive, and the odor returns.

  • Vinegar>  Never start with vinegar. Vinegar sets stains (like you set the dyes in Easter eggs.) Totally ineffective for odor.

  • Oxy products>  Not recommended: Zero benefit for odor, and may bleach out the carpet.

  • Ammonia solution>  Done properly, fine for urine stain; not odor. Followed by vinegar solution to neutralize.

  • Citrus scents>  Obviously simple short term relief.

  • Shampoo/Wet Vac>  Urine is under the carpet. Wetting the carpet and pad spreads it out; odor worsens.

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Q. What is urine comprised of? Why does urine smell?

A. Urine is comprised of a concentration of waste products of metabolism such as urea, creatine and uric acid, along with detoxified substances. It may also contain considerable amounts of sodium chloride and other electrolytes. A component called urochrome gives it it's characteristic yellow color.

Fresh pee does not actually have an unpleasant odor, but the ammonia cal smell of stale (old) pee is due to bacterial decomposition of the urea in the urine, urine salts, mercaptans, and the bacterial excrement itself. Nature's bacteria will continue to feed as long as there is a food source, and moisture. Nature's bacteria are not efficient at totally consuming the urea. They need the help of special, laboratory engineered bacteria to accomplish total source removal. Also, over time part of the urea crystallizes into urine salts. The urine salts  form between the carpet and the pad and draw in moisture out of the air. That is  why the ammonia smell becomes stronger on humid days. (The surrounding bacteria are "happier" and feeding more.) Our Yellow Free dissolves the salts making it easier for our Odor Free bacteria culture to consume it.

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Q. Why should urine be treated as soon as possible?
A. Left untreated, you may wind up with a difficult to remove yellow stain, or worse, a dye loss. Over time urine salts become highly alkaline, and can bleach out your primary carpet dyes, starting with the weaker red and blue, so that you are left with a yellowish or off white discoloration. At this point, your only options are to dye, or section (patch) the carpet. Even our kit, which contains highly effective stain removal ability, see testimonials cannot claim to remove stains that have become permanent, and of course a dye loss can only be corrected by re-dyeing. (Particularly susceptible to permanent stains or dye loss are wool oriental carpets.)

NOTE: Never use hot water or vinegar to treat urine stains. You will set the stain.

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Q. Are enzymes safe?
A. Yes, contrary to what you may have read on other web sites, enzymes are NOT alive. They are simply catalysts (produced by bacteria,) which speed up chemical reactions. For instance, they assist our own human digestive processes. Our liquid culture is manufactured by a company that supplies many of the major sanitation facilities across the country. We prefer this liquid culture over powder type enzyme products, because liquid reduces the risk of becoming airborne. While no long term health problems have ever been noted from handling non-pathogenic enzyme products, dust and aerosol's become airborne more readily, and can cause allergic reactions in some individuals.

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Q. Are bacteria safe?
A. The non-pathogenic type of bacteria used in 1•2•3 ODOR FREE™ are perfectly safe. They are nature's way of eliminating protein wastes. 1•2•3 ODOR FREE™ will eliminate urine, feces, blood, vomit and other protein based substances. This superb laboratory engineered enz/bac culture contains a specially bred species of harmless bacteria, which have a huge competitive advantage in growth over the bacteria in your carpet. By the billions, they rapidly consume the food source, (pee, vomit, feces, blood, etc.) and eliminate the smell permanently and safely.
NOTE: Our industrial strength 1•2•3 ODOR FREE enz/bac culture is formulated in a spore state, and has a shelf life of at least five years, regardless of whether the bottle is closed or open. The bacteria only become active when introduced to a food source.                

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Q. Is there a limit to an area that can be treated?
A. Yes, of course. For instance, a home with a couple of Saint Bernard's with severe bladder problems may require professional restoration, or actual carpet and/or pad replacement, but occasional accidents are the norm, and if you are prepared, they are easily controlled.

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Q. Does the age of the animal affect the degree of odor?
A. Very much so. In young animals the kidneys are functioning perfectly, filtering much of the waste out of the pee. An older animals kidneys don't filter as well, and the odor becomes more pronounced.

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Q. Does the type, sex, and eating habits of the animal influence the degree of odors and stains?
A. Yes. Typically male cats are the worst offenders, because of their high protein diet, and the male hormone testosterone in their urine. Female cats would rank next, followed by dogs. A dog's diet is usually more carbohydrate than protein, and this usually translates to less severe problems.

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Q. How do I locate the urine?
A. The professionals use black lights and sensors to locate the urine deposits. Not having these tools at your disposal leaves you with sight, smell, and of course something that happens to most of us - stepping barefoot on a new one! Usually we find male pet deposits near furniture or walls, and female pets generally out in the open areas, although this may not always be the case.  NOTE: Wal-Mart has a 24" black light that works fine, and is only $10.00.

 

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SEE HOW KIT WORKS


All three products used in the 1•2•3 ODOR FREE™ kit are the finest available. They are perfectly safe to use in the home,  when used as directed. Our industrial strength enzyme bacteria culture is USDA approved.


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Just Rite Cleaning Products, Inc.
5700 Riverview Drive
Lisle, IL 60532
(888) 419-1299
(630) 964-6477 fax
sales@justrite.com
 

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